Letting Go

“Let go and let God,” was the advice given before I left for this adventure in France.  I
came across it this morning as the coffeemaker dripped its last drops.  What does that mean—this letting go?  A subject for thought while I ate my chocolate croissant.  Sorry, no picture of it—it’s best when it’s warm.  Chocolate croissants.  A taste so sublime with a flaky crust, a form of butter that is lighter than air, and the deep, rich chocolate paste that is a part of each bite.  They are the reason that I know there is a god; nothing else could create something so divine!  Ah, and the ones here are some of the best.  Yes, you caught me.  I said “ones” in the plural.  At home it’s a once a week treat, but here it has been nearly each day.   Is this part of that letting go or merely the absence of proper discipline?

The question blew in and out of the activities of the day.  Letting go—good; discipline—not so?  Or is there another approach?  Our first stop, the village of Peyre that was erected out of and part of the rock.  There one could get a most interesting, juxtapositional view of the viaduct of Millau, 6 years old with modern sail-like, winged supports, and this 11th century village of stone.

Lunch was a Pic-Nique (that’s French) on the banks of the Tarn.  The food was not heated, so I got a photo this time.  Afterwards shoes and socks were shed following the lead of the young kids, and we crossed to an island of smooth stones warmed in the sun.  Ah, a stone massage for the feet!

Then on to the more urban Millau.  There, and now continuing after, my disquiet wafts round that two word directive to simply let go.  Perhaps I am approaching a threshold, a point of engaging the discipline of surrendering all.

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Beginner’s Mind

Today we climbed into the van and headed off to la Grotte de Labeil, a cave of multiple personalities, set in a rocky landscape.  Near the entrance was a crematorium of  pre-historic and Roman times.  Beyond the site of the funerary fire sat a field of cremation urns from the pre-historic, iron, and Roman ages.  A few steps further beyond, wheels of cheese ripened on racks.  And a few steps more, bottles of red wine from five years ago aged in the cool.  Such a mixture of opposites, things of death and of life.

 

We traveled deeper where bizarre stalactites (from above—remember, they have to hold on tight) and stalagmites are formed, their colors from minerals carried by the water’s drops.  Such odd shapes!  You would think that we’d
stumbled into someone’s nightmare.

 

 

And now, I have to confess.  The tour was in French, so the information above may not be quite right.  And I fear that I missed many subtleties mentioned by the guide.  I felt much like the five year old boy in our group must have felt—understanding some things but not
all.  This beginner’s mind, a Buddhist concept, is tough.  To let go and realize that one is missing good stuff by stepping out of the known into unfamiliar terrain.  Like those explorers who first pushed past the urns, cheese, and wine to find shapes and colors of rock not found above ground.

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I Already Have What I Need

Two days ago, typing happily away on my computer, the battery icon turned yellow and the warning to recharge popped up on my screen.  No problem.  I was prepared for this and pulled out the plug adapter and current converter.  I was not prepared for what followed—bleeps, flashing warning pop-ups, and a dwindling percentage displayed in the battery symbol.  I unplugged and re-plugged.  I switched outlets.  I was tempted to try magical words—from curses to blessings to pleading on my knees.  This was a problem—no computer nor internet for a month!?!  And little chance to find something for an American-type issue out in the French countryside.  I e-mailed (Blackberry) my daughter to order something and send it express, not happy about the cost and worried that our address was only the nearby village’s name.  But my daughter, well-named for a conquering goddess, came to the rescue!  While in Peru this summer, her roommate had discovered that only the transformer was needed, with an adapter for the plug.  The converter only messes things up.  So, I deleted the converter from the plug adapter-converter-computer plug chain and tentatively pushed the adapter into the 220 volt outlet.  Voilà!  I’m back in business.  Turns out, I already have what I need.

 After lunch, I set out for a hike with another from le Mas.  It was 12, 20, maybe a bit under 100 kilometers—we never could get the exact  number from our host—through forest and along fields, a distant cowbell and moo punctuating our thoughts.  It was really quite fun.  Me speaking in French, she nicely tolerating this assault on her mother tongue.  We had a map and description which, at times was good and other times not.  For instance, we stood on what was supposed to be the 5th bridge, having counted only 4, deciding if this was the place we were supposed to turn left.   But we progressed on the trail and were almost back to le Mas.  “Cross the field” were the directions given now.  OK, we were game.  But the mown field gave no indication of the next path to be found.  So close, yet so far.  And the sun was lowering in the sky.  We hiked back and forth to the last turn-off, got directions from a man in the village to go in a totally opposite way, made one—no, make that two—phone calls to le Mas, and finally headed up a field that had been right there all along.  We already had what we had needed, we just needed to see.

This was the view, looking back at the top of that field that we climbed, the cows (those brown aggregate dots in the upper righthand corner) greeting us as we joined the path back to dinner and le Mas.

 A “P.S”. to the moral of having already having what I need.  This cheese plate comes out every lunch and dinner between the main course and dessert.  Just wanted to let you know that I’m having Roquefort twice a day now—pinch me, am I in heaven or not?  Madame Françoise tells me that I may have it for breakfast, too, if I want!

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Forces of Nature

This is from 9.4.2011.  (I’ll write more about my technical difficulties in the next blog.)

It was a short drive on winding narrow roads to la Chapelle Russe, the Russian Chapel.  With each turn, a new vista opened before us.   I was breathless at each new landscape, even though the hills and valleys were rather ordinary when viewed through the camera lens.  I could not seem to capture the quality that induced that sudden intake of breath in astonishment and recognition.  The force of nature.

The Russian Chapel is perched atop a planed-off hill.  It is a Russian Orthodox thank-you
to the people of this region for their support during the Cold War.  Originally built in northern Russia, using wood from their nearby forest, it was painstakingly dismantled, shipped, and reassembled here, log by log.

 

The joints are all interlocking without a nail in sight.  The scale is grand, and this feat of human gratitude and engineering incredible.  Yet this wood from the colder climate is not doing well in the warmth of the South of France.  It yields to a finger’s push as fungus destroys it from within.  The force of nature.

 

 

 

 

This grill beckoned us to lunch.  The main fire behind, the hot coals are raked
forward to control the heat for the meat on the rack.  Yet the only open tables were those outside, and a light sprinkle persisted longer than our desire for the results of that
grill.  We headed back to le Mas de Salel, the sun inviting us to an al fresco lunch at home.  But just as we sat down to a dish of onions, green beans, fresh tomatoes, and scallops in cream, with fresh coriander a perfect accent, light rain began hitting the plates.  A meal outside was just not to be, and we moved everything inside.  The rain continued into the afternoon, and I followed the invitation, taking a long nap.   The force of nature.

The forces of nature.  We try so hard to control them, their effects on our activities, surroundings, and spirit.  Sometimes they conform to our persistent will; sometimes we are the ones who must bend.  The trick is in the discernment of knowing which situation is which at the time, wanting to avoid the unforeseen loss of a crumbling shrine.

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Patterns and Kittens

Je suis arrivée—I have arrived…at least literally.  The sun is playing hide and seek (a marvelous turn of phrase courtesy of Nicolas, the proprietor).   There is a hum, about alto pitch, that surges and not.  It takes a moment to discern that it is from the wind and not a nearby superhighway.

 

My room overlooks the fountain in the courtyard where, not too long ago, sheep and horses drank.  A man calls in the distance.  I look up to see a parade of sheep marching along a path, dogs and then the man coming up behind.  This farm used to raise ewes for the nearby caves where Roquefort cheese is still made.  But, in a biblical turn of events, the last caretaker switched out all the young ewes before leaving, resulting in a herd of ewes suitable only for the butcher’s knife.   I’m thinking of Jacob.  Some part of his story often turns up at pivotal points in my life.   Does life have these patterns, these threads that manifest in an overall design?  It hit me that I am in a boarding house now just like I was when in London and that my home was a boarding house in a previous life.

Kittens!  There are four adorable siblings that tumble and play with their mama nearby.  She frequently yawns, the universal sign of motherhood no matter the nationality, language, or species.  Giggles erupt like a sneeze–the kittens’ outlandish antics demanding a response. These babies are starting to venture away from their mother and sibs, slowly, tentatively, unsure of their bounds.  Again, there is this question if the universe moves in patterns, connecting the dots, as I settle in at le mas de Salel.

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Are you in it or not?  It is a line from a poem that I wrote while studying Teresa of Avila’s The Interior Castle.  Are you in it or not?  It is a fierce invitation to life, to the possibility of living in a belly-to-belly relationship with the Beloved and your true self.  Are you in it or not?  I’m not sure that you can ever completely assent—the bidding seems to multiply upon its acceptance—but I’m going to try!

And so I am preparing for a month in the South of France.  Hey, no one said the journey had to be an ascetic one!   All seems madness right now.  Stacks of clothes, books, a bike
helmet, and way too many pairs of shoes attend my suitcase defined by the limits of size and weight.  I fight the compulsion to clean the bugs from the light housing of the shower fan as take-off time approaches.  There is a sense of urgency to household tasks that have lingered for longer than I am willing to admit in public.  It won’t all get done.  Nightmares manifest the hidden panic of what might be birthed in unscheduled time.  I move, suspended between terror and a to-do list.

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